We were barely home two weeks from our Great Lakes Adventure and just getting adjusted to living on land again, when we departed for the next adventure, Italy and Croatia. However, this adventure was booked and planned months before we even considered the Great Lakes Adventure. In October 2018, Allen and I attended the Annapolis Boat Show where we learned about sailing Croatia’s Adriatic coast. We returned home with a sweet bareboat charter deal (see note #1 below) and began to make plans to sail Croatia in September 2019. Little did we know at the time that this once-in-a-lifetime-trip would become Book 2 of an incredible year of adventures.
Our 7-night charter began and ended in Split, Croatia and since we were flying all the way across the Atlantic, we wanted to extend our vacation in Europe. There are no direct flights into Split from Toronto, so we looked for an interesting connection to explore. The choice was easy – Italy.
Venice was our first stop after a direct flight from Toronto, and from the first peek outside the airport, we knew we weren’t in North America anymore. The usual services are there, car rental, taxis, busses, hotel shuttles, but what makes Marco Polo Airport unusual are the water docks. Travelers have a choice of traveling by land to the modern city or the old city (separated by a 4 km causeway) and being dropped off in a square at the edge of town. Or they can opt for a private water taxi, gleaming 1960’s style wooden power boats or a large barge-type passenger boat – the water bus. We chose the water bus. As we descended into the belly of the water bus we understood this was not for the weak stomached, as the massive wakes from the water traffic tossed us like toys in a bathtub. It was fascinating to see boats of all types and sizes, sleek power boats to heavy working barges, zipping around the opaque green waters – they make rush-hour on the 401 look like a Sunday drive in the country. In about 40 minutes we reached our stop, checked into our B&B and were ready to indulge in two of Italy’s delicacies: pizza and a spritz (see note #2 below).
We only had two nights in Venice and I could have spent a couple more there. An ancient city, from a time when city planning was not a thing, it was fun to explore. You never know what you’ll find around the corner – what appeared to be a dingy alley, turned out to be a major thoroughfare and sometimes what looked to be a major street, dead-ended in a canal. Although we did check-out the major tourist attractions such as the Realto Bridge and St Marks Square, we tried to avoid the large crowds by finding out-of-way shops and restaurants. And no, we did not spring 80 euro for a 30 minute gondola ride.
Florence was a 2 hour Frecciargento high-speed train ride (Italy’s trains travel up to 220 km/hour) from Venice and our next stop in our Italian adventure. We spent 2 nights here and found that to be more than enough. For those who love the arts and museums, I imagine 2 weeks wouldn’t be enough, but 2 days were plenty for us. We went inside only one museum, Galleria dell’Accademia, which houses Michelangelo’s David statue (photos do not do it justice!), but we enjoyed just wandering the city, taking in the multitudes of statues displayed in public parks and piazzas and gawking at enormous Duomo Cathedral. We did a little shopping in Florence’s famous leather markets, but found most of the merchandise to be mass produced and overpriced (but I did find a fabulous handbag).
Another fast train that connected to a really slow, really crowded train brought us to Manarola in Cinque Terre, on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The 5 villages of Cinque Terre, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore, grow out of hillsides perched above the sea, are part of Cinque Terre National Park a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This latest distinction, greatly contributing to the explosion of tourism, is likely Cinque Terre’s biggest blessing and worst nightmare.
With lush hillside vineyards, centuries old buildings impossibly built into rock walls, the sea crashing into rugged cliffs, Cinque Terre is perhaps one of the most beautiful places on earth, I have not seen anything much better. However, despite all this beauty, this was my least favorite part of our journey. September is supposed to be off-season, but there were hordes of tourists everywhere. They were in every village, in every restaurant, in every shop, every alley, making it nearly impossible to snap a picture of a bay or sunset without 5 strangers in the way. The shops and restaurants are clearly thriving with the influx of tourists’ euros, but true Italian culture is melting away with every made-in-China tea towel and lemon-shaped soap sold. Restaurants seem to have photocopied the same menu, offering mediocre expensive meals to the lined-up tourists. And the trains! One train connects all 5 villages and it was like the Yonge Bloor subway station at 5pm on a Friday. Cinque Terre is beautiful, but it was also very sad. The authentic fishing and farming village culture is gone. I was happy to move on after only 2 days.
When in Rome…. I was told that even though Rome also has throngs of tourists, it is big enough to absorb them and maintain its authentic culture. What a relief! Yes, there were massive crowds in the popular attractions such as the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps and Vatican, and yes, we saw them all (how could we not?) and loved them, but there was space to get away from the crowds and explore the rest of this magnificent city and experience some real Roman culture.
We had the opportunity to have a unique tour, one off the typical tourist beaten track. Ironically, it was a guided tour; however, was not an average tour that can be purchased from on-line websites. We met a guide who leads independent tours in Rome, to sights that tourist typically don’t visit. After Googling “The Gladiator Guide” to make sure he was legit, we signed up for the evening tour. Our guide, Alex, led us down back alleys and side streets (with our take-away glasses of wine because it was after 5 o’clock) to show us some very interesting sights. The first was Michelangelo’s Roman tomb.
You may know that Michelangelo’s tomb and body rests in Florence, not Rome, as he wished to be returned to his birthplace after death. So how did we visit his tomb in Rome? Michelangelo spent the last few decades of his life in Rome and when he died the Pope wanted to keep him in Rome, but knowing this may not sit well with his family, Michelangelo’s body was hidden in a tomb in the SS. Apostoli Church, on a quiet little street in Rome. The Pope quietly ordered a grand tomb to be carved, that would eventually entomb Michelangelo and moved to St Peter’s Basilica, so he would rest among saints, popes and royalty. However, Michelangelo’s family wanted to bring him home, so his nephew traveled to Rome, found his uncle’s body, broke into the tomb, hid it among in rags and hay in a wagon and brought it back to Florence. We visited the SS. Apostoli Church, saw the original tomb as well as the original tomb marker located in the adjoining monastery, carvings begun, but not completed. We also visited a tiny church that is an exact replica of St Peter’s Basilica, but only seats about 15 people, as well as the exact location where Julius Caesar was stabbed to death. I’m not sure if all of these claims can be proven, but this was by far the most fascinating tour of the trip.
After 9 incredible days in Italy, we were ready for Chapter 2 of our Great European Adventure, Croatia, but first some thoughts on Italy. Although I travelled through Italy many years ago, this was my first visit to Italy. It seems that in the last few years Italy’s tourism industry has exploded. Just a decade ago Italy did not seem to be on many bucket lists (it was not on mine), but I know at least a dozen people who have travelled there in recent years and many more with plans to do so. And I understand why it’s so popular: the history, the art, the culture, the weather and just the sheer beauty of the land make it a perfect European destination. It’s easy to travel by public transportation and most people speak English, making it comfortable to move around. I love Italy and some day will return for more; however, I was disappointed by one thing, something for which Italy is very famous – the food. Perhaps my expectations were too high, perhaps living in a multi-cultural city like Toronto I can have gourmet Italian food at any time, perhaps growing up next door to Sicilian-born Mrs. Cerito I had already sampled the best Italian food on the planet, but the food in Italy was a disappointment. Now, we ate well, every day, in every city, but it felt like the same food over and over…pizza and pasta. I craved fresh vegetables and salads and anything original, but rarely found them. However, there are two items where Italy cannot be topped: cappuccino and gelato. Wow, now that is something I wish I could have brought home with me.
Note #1
A bareboat charter is a chartered boat, where all crew, provisions and itineraries are supplied by the customers instead of the charter company, as opposed to cruises, where you buy rent a room on a ship and all else is provided for you. It’s a lot like renting a car.
Note #2
Aperol Spritz, or known as a Spritz in Italy, is a uniquely Italian cocktail consisting of Aperol, a bitter and citrusy Italian aperitif bright orange in color, prosecco and a splash of soda water and is gloriously delicious!
