Chapter 2: Georgian Bay

Today is Friday, June 21 and we are exactly 4 weeks into our journey – could we really be ¼ of the way through?  Time goes by in a blink, but then again, sometimes I hardly remember living as a “land-lubber”.   Some observations from my first month living in a tiny space, with no set address:

• I packed way too many clothes!  But as usual, forgot a few key items I have needed to pick up along the way (a belt, socks).
• The Ontario landscape is breathtaking!  Just when I think I’ve seen the most beautiful rock formation, bay or sunset, another one surprises me.  Get out there and see it, by sailboat, kayak or car, just get out there.
• A healthy lifestyle is easier on the boat.  Every day we’re out walking, hiking or just managing the boat.  Junk food– if it’s not on the boat, there is no way easy way to get it.  I’ve lost 6 pounds since starting the journey and Allen has a decent six pack.  We are the fittest we’ve been in decades!
• My cat is a rock star.  Check out his Instagram:  catstevensthetravelingcat

On Monday June 10 we arrived in Midland and pulled into the marina for a couple days to prepare for the next leg.  We carried our mast mounted horizontally across our deck to get through the TSW’s bridges and locks, but in Georgian Bay we can become a sailboat again. Our mast weighs more than 1000 pounds and all our electronics run through it and connect to the boat (radar, lighting, wind instruments, antennas), so this is a heavy, but delicate operation requiring a crane, a crew and lots of patience.  Fortunately for us, my sister and brother-in-law drove up to lend a hand.  Midland is also a bigger city with many resources, so we could stock up on groceries and other necessary supplies.  It was also incredibly good to have some family time.

The forecast told us 25 knot winds were coming, so we needed a safe, protected anchorage.  Frying Pan Bay, about 3 hours from Midland, is a spacious, deep water bay, with great wind protection from all sides, surrounded by public park land.  We were aware that this bay can get very busy on weekends, but arriving mid-week, in a wet, cold Spring, we thought we’d have the place to ourselves.  Wrong!  There were at least 9 other power boats already there, in what looked like a guys’ trip of fishing and beer.  They were harmless, but hogging the public dock so going ashore with the dingy was a little awkward.  We rode out the wind storm and two days later headed to Bernadette Island for our next anchorage.

Bernadette is accessed through narrow channels of deep water and huge rocks and shoals if you venture anywhere outside the channel; however, that pretty much describes all of Georgian Bay.   Another storm was coming, so a secure anchorage was our primary concern.  We tucked into a cove, our anchor holding well and tied off the stern to shore to prevent wild swings in the wind storm.  After 2 stormy days and nights cooped up in the boat, we were treated to a lovely sunset and kayak trip, the first ever with Cat Stevens. Well, to say he took to kayaking like a natural is an understatement, even after he took a spill into the water. Now he jumps on with no hesitation and goes for a paddle. 

Next Stop – Wreck Island, part of the Massassauga Provincial Park system.  As Bernadette is surrounded by private property and No Trespassing signs, this anchorage gave us an opportunity to get off the boat and stretch our legs on the hiking trail.  With Cat Stevens on his leash, we spent several hours hiking through forest and climbing impressive granite slopes along the shoreline.  We also decided next provisioning stop, buy hiking boots.

After 5 nights of “swinging on the hook” (anchoring), we pulled into Parry Sound for fuel, holding tank pump out, provisioning and good wi-fi.  The “Home of Bobby Orr” is off Highway 69 and has always been a good spot to fill the tank and move on north, so this was our first visit to this town.  A lovely downtown core with mom & pop shops, independent restaurants, a brewery, free summer concerts and a river with rapids running through it, was just what we needed to restock the boat and recharge our own batteries. 

We’ve moved back to nature the last 2 nights, anchoring off Franklin Island near Snug Harbour. A provincial park, Franklin Island is known as a kayaker’s paradise.  No kidding!  Allen and I set out in the dinghy planning to circumnavigate the island.  Our planned 1-hour tour turned into a 3 hour tour!  This island is huge, with so many coves and crannies worth exploring.  One cove turned into an interior lake, and then another and another.  This is home to osprey, loons, turtles, all kinds of birds and we read that bears live here too (though we didn’t meet any).  It would take a week to see it all.  Being here mid-week, we didn’t see another soul on the island and sometimes it felt like we were the first humans to explore it.  Then we turn a corner and see a camp fire pit or inuksuk indicating this place must be crawling with kayakers and campers on weekends.  So glad we could experience it as we did. 

In about an hour we will be pulling up the anchor and heading to Pointe Au Baril for a special treat – my boy is coming up for a visit, so signing off until next time.